To make things easier we will start with the assembly of the Z axis. Put two rods in Z-axis carriage but not all the way through we have to put there Dremel holder too. Dremel holder should move freely on the linear bearings. Now we can install a stepper motor with a lead screw and 3D printed coupler. Fix the motor with M3 screws and make sure that both rods are secured with a screw at the bottom.
To make it easier for further use point the stepper motor connector backward because that's where we will install electronics. Tighten brass nuts to both 3D printed parts. Grab one of the X-axis carriages and join two rods to it. Then put a Z-axis carriage on those rods and close with the other X-axis carriage on the opposite side. Attach a motor with a lead screw to 3D printed part with M3 screws.
Y-axis is directly connected to the main frame of this machine. It's made out of 20x20mm aluminum extrusion profiles connected together with screws to ensure rigidity. I choose 20x20mm profiles because those are easy to get, not that expensive and fit the size of this machine. Bigger profiles could be used but for such a small machine it wouldn't make a lot of difference.
Because this machine is modular you don't have to use specific lengths of the profiles. Do you want to make a big machine? Do you want to make a smaller machine? I cut my profiles to 60cm we need two of them and 30cm we need 4.
Once you have profiles cut to a length that you want we can start drilling holes. We need to drill holes on the ends of longer profiles, to make that easier I designed 3D printable tool that you can put on the profile and then drill a hole with 6.
It's 3D printable so made out of plastic, it's easy to drill it out but we only need to make 4 holes with this tool so that shouldn't be a big problem. On both ends of 2 shorter profiles, we have to make a thread with a tap. It's a good idea to pre-drill a hole for the tap with 5. Let's start by attaching stepper motors to 3D printed parts with M3 screws.
We can also fix couplers to the motors. Put in place M5 screws with hammer nut to make it easier to assemble. You can slide 3D printed part with a motor on to the longer aluminum profile. On the other side, you can fix a shorter profile as shown on the pictures. Tighten the screws with hammer nuts. Also, don't forget to tighten an M6 screw on the side of the longer aluminum profile. Do the same on the other side. Attach middle brackets you can install as many as you want 2 or 3 with corner connectors, M5 screws and hammer nuts.
We already installed Y-axis motor supports and lead screw support, right now we have to attach lead screws and Y-axis rods. Again thanks to the modularity of this machine it's up to you how long rods and lead screws will be You have to figure out good length so that it will work with the length of your aluminum profiles.
It's time to connect X axis with the Y-axis, grab the X-axis with Z-axis already installed and put it on the rods and lead screws, you will have to rotate lead screws with your fingers to push the X-axis back a little bit. I had to find something that would be good for a table of the CNC.
Table with slots would be great but it is expensive. I could make it out of aluminum plate or even steel but that's hard to cut especially to cut it straight with an angle grinder. As most of us makers I don't have a huge CNC plasma, waterjet or laser that can cut such materials but I have a jigsaw so I can make it out of plywood.
I finally used table saw to cut it straight but corners should be cut with jigsaw or handsaw. Plywood is strong enough, it's easy to cut and you can easily buy it anywhere so it seems to be a perfect choice.
With another 3D printed tool, I drilled holes on the edge of this plywood to attach it to an aluminum frame with M5x10mm screws and hammer nuts. Because I don't want to destroy this plywood I added a wasteboard MDF on the top so that I can cut all the way through the material. I also added threaded inserts to the table so that I can use M5 screws to attach material to the table of CNC.
You can buy something like this online, you need to drill a hole and put it in place with a hammer, simple and cheap upgrade that is really useful. Wasteboard - a piece of material that you can mill in when you mill all the way through the material and you don't want to destroy table of your CNC.
It should be replaced after some time. As the name of this project insists as a spindle I use a Dremel tool model , there are already some people that successfully use a different model like or even completely different spindles.
At the end of this instructable, I also write a little bit about the different spindle that I want to use with this machine. But still, this is a super cheap entry-level solution for your first CNC with speed control and it's really good quality. You can always upgrade it later. At the beginning of this project I wanted to add a relay to turn on and off the Dremel with a G-code command but because of some problems I would have to add a socket to plug in a Dremel and then connect that to a wall outlet and protect all of that so that it would be safe, it's not worth it and it's hard to fit all of that on such small machine I decided not to use it.
I was thinking a lot about the way of how Dremel should be attached to the spindle holder. Here is how I did it. There is a nut on the bottom of the Dremel, I thought that I can use it to fix it to the 3D printed part. That didn't work as good as I wanted to. So I added a support structure in the middle of the Dremel with a clamp so that you can squeeze it with M3 screws and nuts. So every time I am machining something I have to remember to turn on the Dremel, I can also easily control the RPM of the Dremel with the slider on the top of it.
Don't worry that's very simple. Once you have a. Go to file examples and open an example from GRBL tab. You should see just one line of code, nothing more, that's ok. Connect Arduino to the computer and upload a program just like any normal program. Digital files purchased at this store cannot be resold.
However, the final product that is the result of the digital model, can be sold. Learn more about the formats.
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TTL mode. Plug and play. Universal and compatible mount. Compatible with most 3D printers and CNC machines. The website also offers free g-code files for CNC hobbyists and machinists to download and use instead of wasting a lot of time and money trying to generate or pay for similar files. Then click on the link to the search result with that topic and you shall be directed to a page where you can download the specific file you want. You can freely download free. You can pull carbide create google it, very very simple.
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